Monday, February 16, 2015
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Friday, February 13, 2015
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Tuesday, February 10, 2015
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Tuesday, February 3, 2015
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Turned Bullet Box



Friday, February 21, 2014
Leons Tea Box Part 3 Creation of the inner lid and completion
Here is the box portion remounted on the lathe. This box will have an inner lid so it needs a lip created inside of the box for the inner lid to sit on and you can see it just inside the box. And this is another critical area: there needs to be just enough wood for the lid to sit on and the inner sides of the rim have to be parallel with the outside of the rim. Other wise the lid wont fit properly or it will fall into the box:

Ok, were on the home stretch. Ive taken the blank for the inner lid and mounted it on the lathe. Its going to need to have the face trued up and the diameter of the lid shaped to match the inside of the box exactly:

This photo was taken several minutes later. It fits perfectly:

Now I needed to hollow out the underside of the lid so I can re-mount it on the lathe and thats what Ive done in this photo. In the photograph you can see 4 concentric circles. Those circles represent the women in Leons life: his wife and his three daughters:

Ive turned over the lid and now Im ready to shape the top of it. It took about 30 minutes of careful turning to get the lid to fit properly underneath the outer lid:

And here are the results. This is the completed, assembled tea box:

This is the box with the outer lid off and the inner lid in place:

And here it is completely disassembled. You can see the inner lid in the left lower corner of the photograph:

And this turn is completed.
Im really tired and so Im going to put the finish on it tomorrow and Ill send photos and discussion of this part of the project tomorrow.
Well, my back is killing me and Ive been clobbered by mosquitoes so Im going to go and have some chocolate milk and sit down with the cats.
See you tomorrow.
VW
Thursday, February 20, 2014
Finishing Up The Stanley 358 Miter Box and Saw
It is done.
And better yet, it saws wonderfully. The old girl looks pretty good for being around a hundred years old. It took me a while to run the last leg of this race but yesterday I got my act together and finished the rehab.
What took so long was my wait for a couple parts I used a local metalsmith to fabricate. The stock guides are L shaped braces that I wouldnt call vital, but they are damn handy. They sit in shallow dados in the bed and clamp into place with a thumb screw clamp behind the fence.
When you place the stock on the bed, you snug up the stock guide to support the piece in place against the back and forth friction of the saw stroke.
Yes you could hold the stock with your hand, but that may be more difficult when dealing with crown mouldings. They make using the saw much nicer.
I tried to fabricate these by myself couple of different ways. I bought the flat and round steel stock and first I tried to drill and tap the end of the steel bar for a machine screw. I tried to be careful and take my time, I drilled the appropriate hole and used oil to lubricate the process. Yet my tap broke off inside the steel bar.
Crap.
So I went to plan B. I had read another online account of a similar rehab where the author fabricated his using a two part epoxy. I picked some up and gave it a shot. Again I followed the instructions carefully but I couldnt get the epoxy to hold up to even light handling. I was doubtful about it, but it was worth a shot.
One thing I dont have in my skill set that I would love to learn is welding. I cast around and found a local metal smith / artist who was willing to throw down a couple quick welds for me. After a few weeks I was able to stop and pick up the pieces.
Now I was in business. The only metal fabrication part I had left was a top bar that connects the two towers and keeps them from racking while youre sawing. This was a simple piece of flat stock, (the same as I used for the stock guides) and it took me re-taping and replacing one of the thumb screws with a replacement.
A couple of screws connected the saw box to a off-cut of 1x12 pine. Now I can cinch it to the bench with a couple holdfasts and store it underneath when I dont need it.
All that was left was to sharpen the saw itself. I always kind of work myself up about before hand and when its over I think, "Damn, that wasnt so bad." For certain its not that difficult of a thing to learn, and the more I do it the better Ive gotten.
One of the turning points for me was taking a saw sharpening class with Mark Harrell over at Bad Axe Tool Works. I wrote about that experience HERE. Working with Mark taught me to trust my the feel of the file and the things my eyes were seeing and has let me do away with the guide blocks and jigs Id been using up to this point. Knowing what to look for has improved my sharpening greatly. Hes teaching more of these classes. As I understand it a couple times a year. Drop by his site and get in contact with him about dates and details. Its so worth it.
Once I sharpened the teeth I used another piece of pine off-cut to test my work. Another trick I learned from Mark. I scribe a square line and saw it, burying the saw to the back. If the saw follows the line, were good. If it appears to pull to one side or the other, a little sharpening stone on the toothline will adjust that.
This time things turned out just right. No stoning necessary.
Now would be the moment of real truth. Would the miter box give me accurate cuts? or would more adjustments be required?
I grabbed a piece of cherry scrap and gave it a shot.
90 degree cut checked out perfect. No light creeping under the trisquare blade when it was checked.
Encouraging, but what about 45 degree miters.
According to my miter square. Accurate as can be. Im a happy boy!
There is only one more thing Im curious about with this saw. Its a little steel disk with three holes. It was attached to the back of the saw when I bought it. It has two beveled screw holes flanking a threaded center hole.
In doing some research on this saw I downloaded a Stanley Tool Catalog from 1914 from a site called Rose Antique Tools. The part is listed as 109 a Stock Guide Plate.
And in the direct picture of the saw box, you can see it in use. Its obviously an attachment to set a repeatable cut for length. I just dont understand for sure how the Stock Guide works in conjunction with it.
I wonder if the stock guides I had made up should have one with an oblong slot down the center. After that its getting another thumb screw made. Im not sure Im ready to go through all of that, but it would be cool to know.
Ive looked around some and not found any reference or seen any pictures of this part in use in the wild, and Id like to know how it works. If you have one, or some good pictures of one, maybe youll consider sharing them with me. Please drop me a line at oldwolfworkshop@gmail.com so I can share that information here. Id appreciate it.
Either way, Im calling this done (at least for a while) Old tool rehabs like this are fun distractions, but I am always happier when Im done with them and can get back to making saw dust. There is a certain satisfaction in making sawdust with a tool youve saved from the scrap heap, and there is no better way to get to know and understand a tool intimately. In the end Id rather spend time fussing with wood instead of fussing with tools.
Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf